Most hotels and resorts on Koh Samet operate their own beachside restaurants, which usually serve a selection of Thai and international cuisine. If you prefer more of an island atmosphere and simpler local food, then head over to Sai Kaew Beach, Ao Phai, or Ao Hin Khok (between Sai Kaew and Ao Phai).

Occupying these two popular hangout spots are endless rows of seafood joints, set up in a similar chilled-out style at nightfall, with low, candlelit tables and straw mats laden with triangular pillows and cushions. The food, however, is hit and miss and it’s nearly impossible to tell which place serves great seafood and which is just a plain rip off. The best advice is to ask around or study the menu before you pick a table.

During the day, hawkers roam the more popular beaches, selling everything from fresh fruit, coconut juice, dried squids, som-tam (fiery papaya salad) to beach shawls, fake tattoos and even Thai massage.